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Getting the outfit right for Royal Ascot or the Melbourne Cup is only half the job. Jewellery is where most race-day looks fall apart, either too loud under a wide-brimmed hat or too plain for an event with this much history behind it. The two events also run on opposite rules, Ascot traditional and restrained, Melbourne Cup bold and colour-led, so what works for one can be wrong for the other. Here is exactly what to wear.
The Royal Enclosure dress code at Ascot is genuinely strict, and jewellery is expected to follow the same restraint as the outfit. Pearls are the safest, most universally accepted choice for the entire five days,
followed closely by delicate diamond or crystal studs.
Gemstones with royal history, emerald, sapphire and ruby, are also considered appropriate and echo the heritage of the event itself. A pair of gemstone earrings in one of these tones works well against a pale or neutral
outfit without breaking the formality of the dress code.
The golden rule at Ascot is balance against the headpiece. A wide-brimmed hat draws the eye upward, so keep jewellery minimal underneath it, or choose one statement piece, never both a statement hat and a statement necklace at once.
The Melbourne Cup carnival runs on the opposite instinct. This is a spring racing event where bold colour is encouraged rather than restrained, and jewellery is expected to do more of the visual work, especially for guests skipping a hat in favour of statement earrings.
A pair of crystal earrings in a strong colour or a chunky hoop shape frames the face well with a sleek updo, which is exactly the look Melbourne Cup styling calls for when a fascinator is left off entirely.
Metal tone matters as much as colour. Gold pairs naturally with cream and blush outfits, while silver suits white and grey. A crystal necklace in the same palette as the outfit pulls the whole look together, particularly if the neckline is left bare.
Earrings are the one jewellery category that works at both events, since they sit close to the face and stay visible whether a hat, fascinator or nothing at all is worn.
Studs suit Ascot’s stricter dress code and won’t catch on a fascinator’s netting. Drops and hoops suit Melbourne Cup’s bolder styling and work particularly well with an updo. Either way, browse the full handmade earrings collection before the necklace, since earrings are the piece most likely to be worn on the day regardless of what else changes.
A necklace should answer a question the rest of the outfit has already asked. If the hat is large and the neckline is high, skip the necklace entirely and let the earrings carry the jewellery.
If the neckline is bare and the headpiece is minimal or absent, a necklace becomes the focal point instead.
For Ascot, a single delicate pendant keeps things within the dress code. For Melbourne Cup, a bolder statement necklace earns its place, provided it is not competing with an equally bold pair of earrings at the same time.
For either event, a coordinated set removes the guesswork of matching separate pieces on the morning of the race. A handmade jewellery set pairs earrings with a necklace or bracelet in the same stone, so the styling decision is made in advance rather than at the mirror an hour before the first race.
One practical note for both events: keep bracelet stacks and layered necklaces to a minimum. Champagne glasses, race cards and binoculars all bring hands and wrists into view constantly, and jewellery that jingles becomes a distraction rather than a detail.
Melbourne Cup styling favours bold colour and statement pieces, spring dresses paired with a striking hat or fascinator, and earrings or a necklace in a strong, coordinated colour rather than understated neutrals.
Avoid oversized, brightly coloured statement jewellery in the Royal Enclosure, along with anything that competes visually with a wide-brimmed hat. The dress code favours pearls, diamonds and restrained gemstone pieces over anything loud.
At the Royal Ascot, a hat or fascinator with a solid base of 4 inches or more is required in the Royal Enclosure. At the Melbourne Cup, headwear is strongly encouraged as part of the tradition but is not always compulsory outside the most formal enclosures, which is when statement earrings step in to replace it.
Yes, in the Royal Enclosure a hat or fascinator is required, though rules are slightly more relaxed in the Queen Anne and other enclosures. Checking the specific enclosure’s dress code before choosing jewellery is worth doing, since it decides whether a necklace or the earrings should lead the look.
Royal Ascot and the Melbourne Cup ask for almost opposite jewellery instincts, restraint against a hat at one, boldness without one at the other. Choosing pieces built around real gemstones and pearls rather than costume jewellery keeps either look feeling considered instead of last minute.
Sarah Mubarrak is the founder of Sarah Valley, a handmade jewellery brand based in the UK. She designs unique pieces using natural gemstones, crystals, and pearls, all crafted by hand with skin-safe materials. Inspired by nature, Sarah creates jewellery for women who want to feel confident and stand out.
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